Dressing the Empire: Clothing, Identity, and Social Control in the Ottoman Millet System

Year 2024, , 99 - 134, 31.07.2024

Mehmet Ada Özdil

https://doi.org/10.47478/lectio.1489487

Abstract

This article explores the intricate relationship between the millet system and dressing within the Ottoman Empire, emphasizing how attire served as a potent symbol of communal identity and religious affiliation intertwined with the socio-political fabric of society. By analyzing historical texts, images, and clothing artifacts, the study illustrates how the Ottoman administration employed dressing as a cultural identity marker and a means of religious and social control. The Empire managed its diverse population through the millet system by allowing religious communities, or millets, significant autonomy within a structured governance framework. Dressing styles within these millets were not merely functional or aesthetic choices but were imbued with deep symbolic meanings that reflected the complex interplay of identity, status, and religious adherence. Each community’s distinctive attire helped reinforce social boundaries and foster a sense of belonging and collective identity among its members. The research highlights significant transitions in the traditional dress codes influenced by political reforms, such as the Tanzimat’s push towards modernization and secularization, which gradually shifted public expressions of identity. This shift was marked by a tension between preserving traditional attire and adopting more homogenized, secular dress styles, reflecting broader socio-political changes within the Empire. In conclusion, the article provides insights into how dressing transcended mere personal adornment to act as a crucial medium through which communal identities were negotiated, expressed, and maintained within the Ottoman public sphere. This examination enriches the historical understanding of the Ottoman millet system and contributes to broader discussions on fashion, religion, and identity formation.

Keywords

Ottoman Empire, Ottoman fashion, millet system, clothing, identity

Thanks

This article is based on the master's thesis titled "The Role of Clothing in Identity Construction in Multicultural Societies: Ottoman-Turkish Modernization," which was conducted under the supervision of Associate Professor Ayşe Günay at the Department of Fashion Design at Işık University.

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