Year 2021,
Volume: 7 Issue: 1, 127 - 136, 29.06.2021
Derya Tatman
,
Gizem Karakan Günaydın
References
- http://www.denizlikulturturizm.gov.tr/tr/content.asp?id=371 [26.10.2008, [Accessed on: 14 08 2020]
- Akpınarlı H.F., Çalışkan Çoban M.G., “Kumaş Dokumacılığının Anadolu’daki Coğrafi Dağılımı” İdil Dergisi, 78, 285-303, 2021. Doi:10.7816/idil-10-78-10.
- Önlü, N. “Ege Bölgesi El Dokuma Kaynakları”, Sanat Dergisi 47-60, 2010.
- Erdoğan, Z. T. D., Buldan dokumacılığı ve ilçede üretilen düz dokumaların bazı özellikleri üzerinde bir araştırma, Doctoral dissertation, Ankara Üniversitesi Fen Bilimleri Enstitüsü Ev Ekonomisi Anabilim Dalı, 1996.
- Ambre, P. P. and Pandit, P., Recycling from Waste in Fashion and Textiles: A Sustainable and Circular Economic Approach, Utilization of Natural Waste for Textile Coloration—Innovative Approach for Sustainability, 215-233, 2020.
- Unal, F., Avinc, O. and Yavas, A., In Sustainability in the Textile and Apparel Industries, Sustainable Textile Designs Made from Renewable Biodegradable Sustainable Natural Abaca Fibers, 1-30, Springer, Cham, 2020.
- Palamutcu S. (Muthu S.), Sustainable Textile Technologies, Textiles and Clothing Sustainability, Textile Science and Clothing Technology, Springer, Singapore, 2017.
- Annapoorani, S.G. (Muthu S.), Sustainability in the Textile Industry, Social Sustainability in the Textile Industry, 57-78, Springer, Singapore, 2017.
- Lee, K. E., In Sustainability In The Textile Industry, Environmental Sustainability In The Textile Industry, 17-55, Springer, Singapore, 2017.
- Sherborne, A. (Blackburn R.S.), Sustainable Textiles Life Cycle And Environmental Impact, Sustainability through the supply chain, pp.1-32, Woodhead Publishing Limited, CRC Press, U.K,2009.
- Mulder, K., Ferrer D., and Van Lente H., What is sustainable technology?: Perceptions, paradoxes and possibilities, Routledge, 2017.
- Devrent N., Palamutçu S., “Organic cotton”, International Conference on Agriculture, Forest Food Sciences and Technologies, Cappadocia / Turkey, 15-17 May 2017.
- Choudry, A.K.R. (Muthu, S.), Roadmap to Sustainable Textiles and Clothing, Environmental Impacts of the Textile Industry and Its Assessment Through Life Cycle Assessment, 1-39, Springer, Singapore, 2014.
- Islam, S., Mohammad, F. (Muthu S.), Roadmap to Sustainable Textiles and Clothing, Emerging Green Technologies and Environment Friendly Products for Sustainable Textiles, 63-82, Springer, Singapore, 2014.
- Niinimäki, K., “Ethical Foundations in Sustainable Fashion”, Textiles and Clothing Sustainability, 1(1), 3, 2015.
- Sunerli, E., and AYDIN, M. Ç., “Doğal boyamanın farklı tekstil lifleri ile oluşturulan yüzeylere etkisi”, The Journal of International Lingual Social and Educational Sciences, 5(1), 196-203, 2019.
- Dayioglu, H., Kut, D., Merdan, N., and Canbolat, S., “The effect of dyeing properties of fixing agent and plasma treatment on silk fabric dyed with natural dye extract obtained from Sambucus ebulus L. plant”, Procedia-Social and Behavioral Sciences, 195, 1609-1617, 2015.
- Ala, D. M., and BAKICI, G. G., “Kanarya Otu (Senecio Vernalis) Bitkisinin Doğal Boyamacilikta Kullanilabilirliğinin Araştirilmasi”, Journal of Textiles & Engineers/Tekstil ve Mühendis, 27 (120), 2020. https://doi.org/10.7216/1300759920202712003
- Eyüpoğlu, Ş., “ Yabani Ekin Çiçeği Bitkisinden Elde Edilen Doğal Boya ile Keten Kumaşın Boyama Özelliklerinin İncelenmesi”, Düzce Üniversitesi Bilim ve Teknoloji Dergisi, 8(1), 317-325, 2020.
- Arain, R. A., Ahmad, F., Khatri, Z., and Peerzada, M. H., “Microwave Assisted Henna Organic Dyeing Of Polyester Fabric: A Green, Economical And Energy Proficient Substitute”, Natural Product Research, 35(2), 327-330, 2021.
- Kumar, P. S., and Joshiba G.J., "Sustainability in Dyeing and Finishing",Sustainability in the Textile and Apparel Industries, Springer, Cham, 165-177, 2020.
- Muthu, S. S., “Evaluation of sustainability in textile industry" In Sustainability in the Textile Industry, Springer, Singapore, 2017.
- Jordeva, Sonja, Kertakova, M., Zhezhova, S., Golomeova-Longurova, S., and Mojsov, K., "Dyeing of Textiles With Natural Dyes." Tekstilna Industrija 68.4, 12-21, 2020.
- Samanta, A. K., and Konar, A.,” Dyeing of textiles with natural dyes”, Natural dyes, 3(30-56), 2011.
- Anshu, S., and Grover, E., Color fastness of walnut dye on cotton. Indian Journal of Natural Products and Resources, 2(2), 164-169, 2011.
- Sarı, H.K., Akduman Ç., “Dyeing of Buldan Fabrics with Walnut Shells (Junglans Regia L.) and Madder (Rubia Tinctorum L.)”, II. International Mediterranean Art Symposium, 10-12 May, 2017, 104-108.
- Gündoğan M., Avinç O.O., Yavaş A., “Buldan Kumaşının Süpürge Otu (Calluna Vulgaris) ve Kök Boya(Rubia Tinctorum L.) Kombinasyonu ile Boyanması” II. Uluslararası Akdeniz Sanat Sempozyumu 10 – 12 May 2017, 144 – 148.
- Eser, F., Sanal, S., Temiz, C., Yilmaz, F., and Onal, A., “Effect of Acid Pretreatment on the Dyeing Performance of Walnut (Juglans regia) Leaves on Wool Fibers”, Fibers and Polymers, 16(8), 1657-1662, 2015. DOI 10.1007/s12221-015-5137-9
- Ayele, M., Tesfaye, T., Alemu, D., Limeneh, M., and Sithole, B., “Natural Dyeing of Cotton Fabric With Extracts From Mango Tree: A Step Towards Sustainable Dyeing”, Sustainable Chemistry and Pharmacy, 17, 100293, 2020. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.scp.2020.100293
- Deo, H. T., Desai, B. K., “Dyeing of Cotton and Jute with Tea as a Natural Dye”, Coloration Technology, 115.7‐8: 224-227, 1999.
- Kulkarni, S. S., et al. "Cotton Dyeing with Natural Dye Extracted from Pomegranate (Punica granatum) Peel" Universal Journal of Environmental Research & Technology 1.2, 2011.
- Sood A., Bansal A., Sharma A. and Seema R., “Effect of Union Dyeing of Wool with Litchi and Apricot Dye Material”, Man mad. Text Ind., 58(4), 205-207, 2005.
- Sankat D. and Siddique N., “Studies on Environment Friendly Dyes Obtained From Plants”, Journal of Environmental Science and Development, 2(3), 562- 569, 2008.
- https://florafiber.live/blog/2017/9/6/lets-dyeblackwalnut#:~:text=The%20dye%20is%20in%20the,surround%20the%20fruit%20(nut).&text=Black%20Walnut%20is%20a%20direct,secondary%20to%20the%20strong%20juglone, [Accessed on: 10.01.2021 ]
- Karadağ, R., Doğal Boyama Reçeteleri. T.C. Kültür ve Turizm Bakanlığı, Dösim, Ankara, 2008.
- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acorn [Accessed on:21.12.2020].
- https://caitlynirwin.com/blog/beginners-guide-to-dyeing-with-onion-skins [Accessed on: 21.12.2020].
- ISO 13934-1, Determination of Maximum Force and Elongation at Maximum Force Using The Strip Method, Geneva, Switzerland, 2013.
- Krook, CM., Fox KR., “Study of the tongue–tear test”. Textile Research Journal, 15:389–96, 1945. Doi:https://doi.org/10.1177/004051754501501102
- Teixeira, N.A, Platt, M.M., Hamburger, W.J. “Mechanics of elastic performance of textile materials: part XII: Relation of certain geometric factors to the tear strength of woven fabrics”. Textile Research Journal, 25 (10), 838–861, 1955. Doi:https://doi.org/10.1177/004051755502501003.
- ISO 13937-1:2000-Textiles-Tear properties of fabrics - Part 1: Determination of tear force using ballistic pendulum method (Elmendorf) standard (ISO 13937-1), 2000.
- Gurarda A., “Investigation of the seam performance of PET/nylon-elastane woven fabrics”, Textile Research Journal, 78 (1), 21–27, 2008.
- Malciauskiene, E., Milasius, A., Milasius, R., “Influence of fabric structure parameters on seam slippage”, Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 20, 3(92), 98–101, 2012.
- ISO 13936-1: 2004. Determination of the slippage resistance of yarns at a seam in woven fabrics – Part 2: Fixed seam opening method, Switzerland, 2004.
- Enez, N., Doğal Boyamacılık, İstanbul: Fatih Yayınları, 1987.
NATURAL DYEING OF BULDAN HANDWOVEN FABRICS WITH PLANT SHELL EXTRACTS: A STEP TOWARDS SUSTAINABLE TEXTILE
Year 2021,
Volume: 7 Issue: 1, 127 - 136, 29.06.2021
Derya Tatman
,
Gizem Karakan Günaydın
Abstract
Sustainable textile production has become widespread among the world due to high consumption of energy and water in the conventional textile methods. Traditional handwoven Buldan fabrics may be one of the alternatives as sustainable textile products which may be also naturally colored with the environmentally friendly natural dye sources. This study has been performed to reveal that handwoven naturally colored Buldan fabrics with different plant extracts such as walnut, acorn shell and onion skin may provide satisfying tensile and fastness properties. According to the test results; The fabric tenacity results indicated that a prominent deterioration was not observed with the natural dyeing process among the fabric samples. Tear strength results varied regarding to the fabrics’ raw material but did not vary significantly according to applied natural dye extract. A slight decrement for washing, water and perspiration fastness results was observed when the undyed samples were compared with their dyed counterparts. Samples dyed with onion skins generally revealed lower washing, water and perspiration fastness results compared to those dyed with walnut and acorn shell for each fabric type. Dry rubbing fastness results were more satisfying than wet rubbing fastness results.
References
- http://www.denizlikulturturizm.gov.tr/tr/content.asp?id=371 [26.10.2008, [Accessed on: 14 08 2020]
- Akpınarlı H.F., Çalışkan Çoban M.G., “Kumaş Dokumacılığının Anadolu’daki Coğrafi Dağılımı” İdil Dergisi, 78, 285-303, 2021. Doi:10.7816/idil-10-78-10.
- Önlü, N. “Ege Bölgesi El Dokuma Kaynakları”, Sanat Dergisi 47-60, 2010.
- Erdoğan, Z. T. D., Buldan dokumacılığı ve ilçede üretilen düz dokumaların bazı özellikleri üzerinde bir araştırma, Doctoral dissertation, Ankara Üniversitesi Fen Bilimleri Enstitüsü Ev Ekonomisi Anabilim Dalı, 1996.
- Ambre, P. P. and Pandit, P., Recycling from Waste in Fashion and Textiles: A Sustainable and Circular Economic Approach, Utilization of Natural Waste for Textile Coloration—Innovative Approach for Sustainability, 215-233, 2020.
- Unal, F., Avinc, O. and Yavas, A., In Sustainability in the Textile and Apparel Industries, Sustainable Textile Designs Made from Renewable Biodegradable Sustainable Natural Abaca Fibers, 1-30, Springer, Cham, 2020.
- Palamutcu S. (Muthu S.), Sustainable Textile Technologies, Textiles and Clothing Sustainability, Textile Science and Clothing Technology, Springer, Singapore, 2017.
- Annapoorani, S.G. (Muthu S.), Sustainability in the Textile Industry, Social Sustainability in the Textile Industry, 57-78, Springer, Singapore, 2017.
- Lee, K. E., In Sustainability In The Textile Industry, Environmental Sustainability In The Textile Industry, 17-55, Springer, Singapore, 2017.
- Sherborne, A. (Blackburn R.S.), Sustainable Textiles Life Cycle And Environmental Impact, Sustainability through the supply chain, pp.1-32, Woodhead Publishing Limited, CRC Press, U.K,2009.
- Mulder, K., Ferrer D., and Van Lente H., What is sustainable technology?: Perceptions, paradoxes and possibilities, Routledge, 2017.
- Devrent N., Palamutçu S., “Organic cotton”, International Conference on Agriculture, Forest Food Sciences and Technologies, Cappadocia / Turkey, 15-17 May 2017.
- Choudry, A.K.R. (Muthu, S.), Roadmap to Sustainable Textiles and Clothing, Environmental Impacts of the Textile Industry and Its Assessment Through Life Cycle Assessment, 1-39, Springer, Singapore, 2014.
- Islam, S., Mohammad, F. (Muthu S.), Roadmap to Sustainable Textiles and Clothing, Emerging Green Technologies and Environment Friendly Products for Sustainable Textiles, 63-82, Springer, Singapore, 2014.
- Niinimäki, K., “Ethical Foundations in Sustainable Fashion”, Textiles and Clothing Sustainability, 1(1), 3, 2015.
- Sunerli, E., and AYDIN, M. Ç., “Doğal boyamanın farklı tekstil lifleri ile oluşturulan yüzeylere etkisi”, The Journal of International Lingual Social and Educational Sciences, 5(1), 196-203, 2019.
- Dayioglu, H., Kut, D., Merdan, N., and Canbolat, S., “The effect of dyeing properties of fixing agent and plasma treatment on silk fabric dyed with natural dye extract obtained from Sambucus ebulus L. plant”, Procedia-Social and Behavioral Sciences, 195, 1609-1617, 2015.
- Ala, D. M., and BAKICI, G. G., “Kanarya Otu (Senecio Vernalis) Bitkisinin Doğal Boyamacilikta Kullanilabilirliğinin Araştirilmasi”, Journal of Textiles & Engineers/Tekstil ve Mühendis, 27 (120), 2020. https://doi.org/10.7216/1300759920202712003
- Eyüpoğlu, Ş., “ Yabani Ekin Çiçeği Bitkisinden Elde Edilen Doğal Boya ile Keten Kumaşın Boyama Özelliklerinin İncelenmesi”, Düzce Üniversitesi Bilim ve Teknoloji Dergisi, 8(1), 317-325, 2020.
- Arain, R. A., Ahmad, F., Khatri, Z., and Peerzada, M. H., “Microwave Assisted Henna Organic Dyeing Of Polyester Fabric: A Green, Economical And Energy Proficient Substitute”, Natural Product Research, 35(2), 327-330, 2021.
- Kumar, P. S., and Joshiba G.J., "Sustainability in Dyeing and Finishing",Sustainability in the Textile and Apparel Industries, Springer, Cham, 165-177, 2020.
- Muthu, S. S., “Evaluation of sustainability in textile industry" In Sustainability in the Textile Industry, Springer, Singapore, 2017.
- Jordeva, Sonja, Kertakova, M., Zhezhova, S., Golomeova-Longurova, S., and Mojsov, K., "Dyeing of Textiles With Natural Dyes." Tekstilna Industrija 68.4, 12-21, 2020.
- Samanta, A. K., and Konar, A.,” Dyeing of textiles with natural dyes”, Natural dyes, 3(30-56), 2011.
- Anshu, S., and Grover, E., Color fastness of walnut dye on cotton. Indian Journal of Natural Products and Resources, 2(2), 164-169, 2011.
- Sarı, H.K., Akduman Ç., “Dyeing of Buldan Fabrics with Walnut Shells (Junglans Regia L.) and Madder (Rubia Tinctorum L.)”, II. International Mediterranean Art Symposium, 10-12 May, 2017, 104-108.
- Gündoğan M., Avinç O.O., Yavaş A., “Buldan Kumaşının Süpürge Otu (Calluna Vulgaris) ve Kök Boya(Rubia Tinctorum L.) Kombinasyonu ile Boyanması” II. Uluslararası Akdeniz Sanat Sempozyumu 10 – 12 May 2017, 144 – 148.
- Eser, F., Sanal, S., Temiz, C., Yilmaz, F., and Onal, A., “Effect of Acid Pretreatment on the Dyeing Performance of Walnut (Juglans regia) Leaves on Wool Fibers”, Fibers and Polymers, 16(8), 1657-1662, 2015. DOI 10.1007/s12221-015-5137-9
- Ayele, M., Tesfaye, T., Alemu, D., Limeneh, M., and Sithole, B., “Natural Dyeing of Cotton Fabric With Extracts From Mango Tree: A Step Towards Sustainable Dyeing”, Sustainable Chemistry and Pharmacy, 17, 100293, 2020. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.scp.2020.100293
- Deo, H. T., Desai, B. K., “Dyeing of Cotton and Jute with Tea as a Natural Dye”, Coloration Technology, 115.7‐8: 224-227, 1999.
- Kulkarni, S. S., et al. "Cotton Dyeing with Natural Dye Extracted from Pomegranate (Punica granatum) Peel" Universal Journal of Environmental Research & Technology 1.2, 2011.
- Sood A., Bansal A., Sharma A. and Seema R., “Effect of Union Dyeing of Wool with Litchi and Apricot Dye Material”, Man mad. Text Ind., 58(4), 205-207, 2005.
- Sankat D. and Siddique N., “Studies on Environment Friendly Dyes Obtained From Plants”, Journal of Environmental Science and Development, 2(3), 562- 569, 2008.
- https://florafiber.live/blog/2017/9/6/lets-dyeblackwalnut#:~:text=The%20dye%20is%20in%20the,surround%20the%20fruit%20(nut).&text=Black%20Walnut%20is%20a%20direct,secondary%20to%20the%20strong%20juglone, [Accessed on: 10.01.2021 ]
- Karadağ, R., Doğal Boyama Reçeteleri. T.C. Kültür ve Turizm Bakanlığı, Dösim, Ankara, 2008.
- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acorn [Accessed on:21.12.2020].
- https://caitlynirwin.com/blog/beginners-guide-to-dyeing-with-onion-skins [Accessed on: 21.12.2020].
- ISO 13934-1, Determination of Maximum Force and Elongation at Maximum Force Using The Strip Method, Geneva, Switzerland, 2013.
- Krook, CM., Fox KR., “Study of the tongue–tear test”. Textile Research Journal, 15:389–96, 1945. Doi:https://doi.org/10.1177/004051754501501102
- Teixeira, N.A, Platt, M.M., Hamburger, W.J. “Mechanics of elastic performance of textile materials: part XII: Relation of certain geometric factors to the tear strength of woven fabrics”. Textile Research Journal, 25 (10), 838–861, 1955. Doi:https://doi.org/10.1177/004051755502501003.
- ISO 13937-1:2000-Textiles-Tear properties of fabrics - Part 1: Determination of tear force using ballistic pendulum method (Elmendorf) standard (ISO 13937-1), 2000.
- Gurarda A., “Investigation of the seam performance of PET/nylon-elastane woven fabrics”, Textile Research Journal, 78 (1), 21–27, 2008.
- Malciauskiene, E., Milasius, A., Milasius, R., “Influence of fabric structure parameters on seam slippage”, Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 20, 3(92), 98–101, 2012.
- ISO 13936-1: 2004. Determination of the slippage resistance of yarns at a seam in woven fabrics – Part 2: Fixed seam opening method, Switzerland, 2004.
- Enez, N., Doğal Boyamacılık, İstanbul: Fatih Yayınları, 1987.