Gömleklik kumaşların tuşe özelliklerinin duyusal analiz ve fiziksel test yöntemleriyle belirlenmesi ve aralarındaki ilişkinin değerlendirilmesi
Year 2018,
Volume: 24 Issue: 7, 1262 - 1271, 28.12.2018
Buket Arık
,
Yüksel İkiz
,
Mehtap Çalışkan
Kardelen Karaibrahimoğlu
Abstract
Bu
çalışmada, gömleklik kumaşların tuşe özelliklerinin duyusal analizle
belirlenmesi ve duyusal analiz neticeleri ile kumaşların bazı fiziksel
özellikleri arasındaki ilişkinin değerlendirilmesi amaçlanmaktadır. Bu amaçla
90 katılımcıdan farklı kumaş özelliklerine sahip 18 adet kumaşı, tuşe
özellikleri yönünden duyusal analiz yöntemiyle subjektif olarak
değerlendirmeleri istenmiştir. Bu test, gözü kapalı ve açık olmak üzere iki
aşamada yürütülmüş ve katılımcıların tercihlerindeki kararlılık test edilmiştir.
Gömleklik kumaşların tuşe özelliklerinin fiziksel test yöntemleriyle
belirlenmesinde kumaşların eğilme uzunluğu ve sertlik değerleri standartlara
uygun şekilde ölçülmüştür. Ardından, anketler birleştirilip değerlendirilerek
fiziksel test yöntemleriyle elde edilen sonuçlarla karşılaştırılmıştır. Kadın
ve erkek katılımcıların gözü kapalı tercihlerinin birbirine oldukça yakın
olduğu ancak gözü açık tercihlerinde renk ve desen gibi kişisel zevkler
nedeniyle farklar oluştuğu bulunmuştur. Katılımcıların tercihlerinin fiziksel
test sonuçlarıyla da uyumluluk gösterdiği gözlenmiştir.
References
- Ellis BC, Garnsworthy RK. “A review of techniques for the assessment of hand”. Textile Research Journal, 50(4), 231-238, 1980.
- Citrin AV, Stem DE, Spangenberg ER, Clark MJ. “Consumer need for tactile input an internet retailing challenge”. Journal of Business Research, 56(11), 915-922, 2003.
- McCabe DB, Nowlis SM. “The effect of examining actual products or product descriptions on consumer preference”. Journal of Consumer Psychology, 13(4), 431-439, 2003.
- Grohmann B, Spangenberg ER, Sprott DE. “The influence of tactile input on the evaluation of retail product offerings”. Journal of Retailing, 83(2), 237-245, 2007.
- Pan N. “Quantification and evaluation of human tactile sense towards fabrics”. International Journal of Design & Nature and Ecodynamics, 1(1), 48-60, 2007.
- Sular V, Okur A. “Sensory evaluation methods for tactile properties of fabrics”. Journal of Sensory Studies, 22(1), 1-16, 2007.
- Sular V, Okur A. “Handle evaluation of men’s suitings produced in Turkey”. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 16(2), 61-68, 2008.
- Özçelik G, Süpüren G, Gülümser T, Tarakçıoğlu I. “A Study on Subjective and Objective Evaluation of the Handle Properties of Shirt Fabrics”. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 16, 3(68), 56-62, 2008.
- Nogueira C, Cabeco-Silva ME, Schacher L, Adolphe D. “Textile materials: Tactile describers”. Journal of Food Technology, 7(3), 66-70, 2009.
- Chang S. Olfactory-tactile Interactions and Their Implications for Retailing. MSc Thesis, Concordia University, Montreal, Canada, 2010.
- Goett S. Linking Threads of Experience and Lines of Thought: Everyday Textiles in the Narration of the self, PhD Thesis, The University of East London, London, England, 2010.
- Kergoat M, Giboreau A, Nicod H, Faye P, Diaz E, Beetschen MA, Meyer T. “Consumer preference for tactile softness: A question of affect intensity?”. Journal of Sensory Studies, 27(4), 232-246, 2012.
- Mahar TJ, Wang H, Postle R. “A review of fabric tactile properties and their subjective assessment for next-to-skin knitted fabrics”. Journal of the Textile Institute, 104(6), 572-589, 2013.
- Yıldız EZ, Özdil N. “Subjective and objective evaluation of the handle properties of shirt fabric fused with different woven interlinings”. Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, 24(1), 47-55, 2014.
- Kandzhikova GD, Germanova-Krasteva DS. “Subjective evaluation of terry fabrics handle”. Journal of the Textile Institute, 107(3), 355-363, 2016.
- Ukponmwan JO. “Appraisal of woven fabric performance”. Textile Research Journal, 57(8), 445-462, 1987.
- Okur A. “Pamuklu dokuma kumaşların eğilme dirençleri ve dökümlülük özellikleri üzerine bir araştırma”. Tekstil ve Mühendis, 9(47-48), 21-36, 1995.
- Chen Y, Collier B, Hu P, Quebedeaux D. “Objective evaluation of fabric softness”. Textile Research Journal, 70(5), 443-448, 2000.
- Çoban S, Cireli A. “Giysilik kumaşların tutum özelliklerinin objektif yöntemlerle belirlenmesi üzerine bir araştırma”. Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, 2(4), 294-302, 1992.
- Genel Kültür Sitesi. “%100 pamuk gömleklerin özellikleri nelerdir?”. http://www.ozelliklerinedir.com/%100-pamuk-gomleklerin-ozellikleri-nelerdir (07.04.2017).
- Sezer Tekstil. “Kumaşlar hakkında genel bilgiler”. http://www.sezertekstil.net/index.php/kumaslar-hakkinda-genel-bilgiler (23.08.2017).
- Elmalı H. Elastan İplik Kullanımının Kumaş Özelliklerine Etkileri. Yüksek Lisans Tezi, Dokuz Eylül Üniversitesi Fen Bilimleri Enstitüsü, İzmir, Türkiye, 2008.
- Grinevičiūtė D, Krauledas S, Gutauskas MV. “Hand evaluation of clothing fabrics from new biodegradable fibres”. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 24(4), 201-210, 2012.
- An SK, Gam HJ, Cao H. “Evaluating thermal and sensorial performance of organic cotton, bamboo-blended, and soybean-blended fabrics”. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 31(3), 157-166, 2013.
- Leung Ka Yan K. Quality evaluation of intimate apparel using bamboo, cotton lycra or nylon lycra fabric: Hand feel and functional performance. Bachelor Thesis, Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong, 2013.
- Overvliet KE, Karana E, Soto-Faraco S. “Perception of naturalness in textiles”. Materials and Design, 90, 1192-1199, 2016.
- Çoban S. Genel Tekstil Terbiyesi ve Bitim İşlemleri. 1. Baskı. İzmir, Türkiye, E.Ü. Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon Araştırma-Uygulama Merkezi Yayını, Yayın No: 10, 1999.
- Öner E. “Boyama ve Bitim İşlemleri Teknolojisi-Ek Ders Notları Mayıs 2016”.
http://www.uzaktanegitimplatformu.com/TEM204_EkDersNotlari_2016.pdf (10.04.2017).
- Schindler WD, Hauser PJ. Chemical Finishing of Textiles. 1st ed. Cambridge, England, Woodhead Publishing Ltd, 2004.
- Howorth WS, Oliver PH. “The application of multiple factor analysis to the assessment of fabric handle”. Journal of the Textile Institute, 49(11), 540-553, 1958.
- Winakor G, Kim CJ, Wolens L. “Fabric hand: tactile sensory assessment”. Textile Research Journal, 50(10), 601-610, 1980.
- Frydrych I, Matusiak M. “Changes in fabric handle resulting from different fabric finishing”. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 11(2), 42-47, 2003.
- Grinevičiūtė D, Gutauskas M. “The comparison of metods for the evaluation of woven fabric hand”. Materials Science, 10(1), 312-325, 2004.
- Slater K. “Subjective textile testing”. Journal of the Textile Institute, 88(2), 79-91, 1997.
- Philippe F, Schacher L, Adolphe DC, Dacremont C. “The sensory panel applied to textile goods-A new marketing tool”. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 7(3), 235-248, 2003.
- Luible C, Varheenmaa M, Magnenat-Thalmann N, Meinander H. “Subjective fabric evaluation”. International Conference on Cyberworlds, 57, 285-291, 2007.
- Liao X, Hu J, Li Y, Li Q, Wu X. “A review on fabric smoothness-roughness sensation studies”. Journal of Fiber Bioengineering & Informatics, 4(2), 105-114, 2011.
- Singh JP, Behera BK, Matsudaira M. “Objective evaluation of terry fabric hand”. Journal of the Textile Institute, 105(5), 467-476, 2014.
- Bozdoğan F. Fiziksel Tekstil Muayeneleri (Kumaş Testleri). 1. Baskı. İzmir, Türkiye, EÜ, Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon Araştırma-Uygulama Merkezi Yayını, Yayın No: 32, 2009.
- AATCC. “AATCC Evaluation Procedure 5, Fabric hand: Guidelines for the Subjective Evaluation of”. USA, 2011.
- Hayter AJ. Probability and Statistics for Engineers and Scientists. 3rd ed. Canada, Thomson Brooks/Cole, 2007.
- Dastous A, Kamau E. “Consumer product evaluation based on tactile sensory information”. Journal of Consumer Behaviour, 9(3), 206-213, 2010.
Determination of tactile properties of shirt fabrics by sensory analysis and physical tests and evaluation of the relation between these two methods
Year 2018,
Volume: 24 Issue: 7, 1262 - 1271, 28.12.2018
Buket Arık
,
Yüksel İkiz
,
Mehtap Çalışkan
Kardelen Karaibrahimoğlu
Abstract
In
this study, determination of tactile properties of shirt fabrics by sensory
analysis and evaluation of the relation between sensory analysis data and
certain physical properties of fabrics have been aimed. For this aim, it was
demanded from 90 participants to evaluate 18 shirt fabrics with different
properties in terms of tactile by subjective sensory analysis. This test was
conducted in two steps as blind and open eye and consistency of the
participants in their preferences was tested by verification test. In the
determination of tactile properties of shirt fabrics by physical test methods,
bending length and stiffness values of the fabrics were measured according to
standards. Then, the poll data were collected, evaluated and compared to
physical test results. It was found that the blind eye preferences of the women
and men participants were quite close, however there were differences in the
open eye preferences due to personal interests like color and design. It was
also observed that the preferences of the participants were in correlation with
physical test results.
References
- Ellis BC, Garnsworthy RK. “A review of techniques for the assessment of hand”. Textile Research Journal, 50(4), 231-238, 1980.
- Citrin AV, Stem DE, Spangenberg ER, Clark MJ. “Consumer need for tactile input an internet retailing challenge”. Journal of Business Research, 56(11), 915-922, 2003.
- McCabe DB, Nowlis SM. “The effect of examining actual products or product descriptions on consumer preference”. Journal of Consumer Psychology, 13(4), 431-439, 2003.
- Grohmann B, Spangenberg ER, Sprott DE. “The influence of tactile input on the evaluation of retail product offerings”. Journal of Retailing, 83(2), 237-245, 2007.
- Pan N. “Quantification and evaluation of human tactile sense towards fabrics”. International Journal of Design & Nature and Ecodynamics, 1(1), 48-60, 2007.
- Sular V, Okur A. “Sensory evaluation methods for tactile properties of fabrics”. Journal of Sensory Studies, 22(1), 1-16, 2007.
- Sular V, Okur A. “Handle evaluation of men’s suitings produced in Turkey”. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 16(2), 61-68, 2008.
- Özçelik G, Süpüren G, Gülümser T, Tarakçıoğlu I. “A Study on Subjective and Objective Evaluation of the Handle Properties of Shirt Fabrics”. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 16, 3(68), 56-62, 2008.
- Nogueira C, Cabeco-Silva ME, Schacher L, Adolphe D. “Textile materials: Tactile describers”. Journal of Food Technology, 7(3), 66-70, 2009.
- Chang S. Olfactory-tactile Interactions and Their Implications for Retailing. MSc Thesis, Concordia University, Montreal, Canada, 2010.
- Goett S. Linking Threads of Experience and Lines of Thought: Everyday Textiles in the Narration of the self, PhD Thesis, The University of East London, London, England, 2010.
- Kergoat M, Giboreau A, Nicod H, Faye P, Diaz E, Beetschen MA, Meyer T. “Consumer preference for tactile softness: A question of affect intensity?”. Journal of Sensory Studies, 27(4), 232-246, 2012.
- Mahar TJ, Wang H, Postle R. “A review of fabric tactile properties and their subjective assessment for next-to-skin knitted fabrics”. Journal of the Textile Institute, 104(6), 572-589, 2013.
- Yıldız EZ, Özdil N. “Subjective and objective evaluation of the handle properties of shirt fabric fused with different woven interlinings”. Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, 24(1), 47-55, 2014.
- Kandzhikova GD, Germanova-Krasteva DS. “Subjective evaluation of terry fabrics handle”. Journal of the Textile Institute, 107(3), 355-363, 2016.
- Ukponmwan JO. “Appraisal of woven fabric performance”. Textile Research Journal, 57(8), 445-462, 1987.
- Okur A. “Pamuklu dokuma kumaşların eğilme dirençleri ve dökümlülük özellikleri üzerine bir araştırma”. Tekstil ve Mühendis, 9(47-48), 21-36, 1995.
- Chen Y, Collier B, Hu P, Quebedeaux D. “Objective evaluation of fabric softness”. Textile Research Journal, 70(5), 443-448, 2000.
- Çoban S, Cireli A. “Giysilik kumaşların tutum özelliklerinin objektif yöntemlerle belirlenmesi üzerine bir araştırma”. Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, 2(4), 294-302, 1992.
- Genel Kültür Sitesi. “%100 pamuk gömleklerin özellikleri nelerdir?”. http://www.ozelliklerinedir.com/%100-pamuk-gomleklerin-ozellikleri-nelerdir (07.04.2017).
- Sezer Tekstil. “Kumaşlar hakkında genel bilgiler”. http://www.sezertekstil.net/index.php/kumaslar-hakkinda-genel-bilgiler (23.08.2017).
- Elmalı H. Elastan İplik Kullanımının Kumaş Özelliklerine Etkileri. Yüksek Lisans Tezi, Dokuz Eylül Üniversitesi Fen Bilimleri Enstitüsü, İzmir, Türkiye, 2008.
- Grinevičiūtė D, Krauledas S, Gutauskas MV. “Hand evaluation of clothing fabrics from new biodegradable fibres”. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 24(4), 201-210, 2012.
- An SK, Gam HJ, Cao H. “Evaluating thermal and sensorial performance of organic cotton, bamboo-blended, and soybean-blended fabrics”. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 31(3), 157-166, 2013.
- Leung Ka Yan K. Quality evaluation of intimate apparel using bamboo, cotton lycra or nylon lycra fabric: Hand feel and functional performance. Bachelor Thesis, Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong, 2013.
- Overvliet KE, Karana E, Soto-Faraco S. “Perception of naturalness in textiles”. Materials and Design, 90, 1192-1199, 2016.
- Çoban S. Genel Tekstil Terbiyesi ve Bitim İşlemleri. 1. Baskı. İzmir, Türkiye, E.Ü. Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon Araştırma-Uygulama Merkezi Yayını, Yayın No: 10, 1999.
- Öner E. “Boyama ve Bitim İşlemleri Teknolojisi-Ek Ders Notları Mayıs 2016”.
http://www.uzaktanegitimplatformu.com/TEM204_EkDersNotlari_2016.pdf (10.04.2017).
- Schindler WD, Hauser PJ. Chemical Finishing of Textiles. 1st ed. Cambridge, England, Woodhead Publishing Ltd, 2004.
- Howorth WS, Oliver PH. “The application of multiple factor analysis to the assessment of fabric handle”. Journal of the Textile Institute, 49(11), 540-553, 1958.
- Winakor G, Kim CJ, Wolens L. “Fabric hand: tactile sensory assessment”. Textile Research Journal, 50(10), 601-610, 1980.
- Frydrych I, Matusiak M. “Changes in fabric handle resulting from different fabric finishing”. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 11(2), 42-47, 2003.
- Grinevičiūtė D, Gutauskas M. “The comparison of metods for the evaluation of woven fabric hand”. Materials Science, 10(1), 312-325, 2004.
- Slater K. “Subjective textile testing”. Journal of the Textile Institute, 88(2), 79-91, 1997.
- Philippe F, Schacher L, Adolphe DC, Dacremont C. “The sensory panel applied to textile goods-A new marketing tool”. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 7(3), 235-248, 2003.
- Luible C, Varheenmaa M, Magnenat-Thalmann N, Meinander H. “Subjective fabric evaluation”. International Conference on Cyberworlds, 57, 285-291, 2007.
- Liao X, Hu J, Li Y, Li Q, Wu X. “A review on fabric smoothness-roughness sensation studies”. Journal of Fiber Bioengineering & Informatics, 4(2), 105-114, 2011.
- Singh JP, Behera BK, Matsudaira M. “Objective evaluation of terry fabric hand”. Journal of the Textile Institute, 105(5), 467-476, 2014.
- Bozdoğan F. Fiziksel Tekstil Muayeneleri (Kumaş Testleri). 1. Baskı. İzmir, Türkiye, EÜ, Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon Araştırma-Uygulama Merkezi Yayını, Yayın No: 32, 2009.
- AATCC. “AATCC Evaluation Procedure 5, Fabric hand: Guidelines for the Subjective Evaluation of”. USA, 2011.
- Hayter AJ. Probability and Statistics for Engineers and Scientists. 3rd ed. Canada, Thomson Brooks/Cole, 2007.
- Dastous A, Kamau E. “Consumer product evaluation based on tactile sensory information”. Journal of Consumer Behaviour, 9(3), 206-213, 2010.