Review
BibTex RIS Cite

Parfümler: Formülasyonları, Dünü, Bugünü ve Yarını

Year 2020, Volume: 40 Issue: 1, 20 - 33, 01.01.2020

Abstract

Günlük hayatta sıklıkla kullanılan kozmetik ürünlerden biri de parfümlerdir. Bu derlemede parfümlerin geçmişteki kullanılışlarına ve günümüze kadar yaşadığı gelişmelere değinilmiştir. Günümüzde doğal kaynaklardan hammadde elde etmenin olumsuz yönlerinin ortadan kaldırılmaya çalışıldığı ve yeni yöntem arayışına girildiği görülmektedir. Sentetik maddelerin üretilmeye başlanması ile bu arayış azalmış, ancak tüketicilerin doğal kaynaklara yöneliminin artması ve doğal kaynakların tükenmeye başlaması ile yeni yöntemlere ihtiyaç oluşmuştur. Bu arayışın sonucunda da biyoteknolojinin parfüm üretiminde kullanılmaya başlandığı görülmektedir. Bu gelişmelere ek olarak, gelecekte üretilecek parfümlerin, farklı ve yeni parfüm karışımları olması amacıyla parfüm üretiminde yapay zekanın kullanımı başlamıştır. Bu derlemede ayrıca parfümlerin güvenliliği, stabilitesi, etkililiği gibi konulara da değinilmiştir.

References

  • 1. Chisvert A, López-Nogueroles M, Salvador A. Perfumes ☆. Ref Modul Chem Mol Sci Chem Eng [Internet]. 2018;(March):4–9. Available from: https://linkinghub.elsevier.com/retrieve/pii/B9780124095472140375
  • 2. OPINION on Fragrance allergens in cosmetic products [Internet]. 2011 [cited 2019 Apr 4]. Available from: https://ec.europa.eu/health/scientific_committees/consumer_safety/docs/sccs_o_073.pdf
  • 3. Api AM, Hakkinen PJ. Fragrances and Perfumes. In: Wexler P, editor. Encyclopedia of Toxicology (Second Edition) [Internet]. Second Edi. New York: Elsevier; 2005. p. 382–4. Available from: http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B0123694000004361
  • 4. Chisvert A, Salvador A. Perfumes in Cosmetics. Regulatory Aspects and Analytical Methods for Fragrance Ingredients and other Related Chemicals in Cosmetics. In: Salvador A, Chisvert A, editors. Analysis of Cosmetic Products. Amsterdam: Elsevier; 2007. p. 243–56.
  • 5. Rodrigues SN, Martins IM, Fernandes IP, Gomes PB, Mata VG, Barreiro MF, et al. Scentfashion®: Microencapsulated perfumes for textile application. Chem Eng J. 2009;149(1–3):463–72.
  • 6. Teixeira MA, Rodríguez O, Mata VG, Rodrigues AE. The diffusion of perfume mixtures and the odor performance. Chem Eng Sci. 2009;64(11):2570–89.
  • 7. Edwards M. Fragrance families [Internet]. 2019 [cited 2019 Apr 1]. Available from: http://www1.fragrancesoftheworld.info/DashBoard#
  • 8. Cleopatra Q, Dowager C, Yang E, Islands AS. Cosmetics and fragrances. In: T. Mitsui, editor. New Cosmetic Science. First. 1997. p. 99–119.
  • 9. Teixeira MA, Rodríguez O, Gomes P, Mata V, Rodrigues AE. Performance of Perfumes. In: Teixeira MA, Rodríguez O, Gomes P, Mata V, Rodrigues AE, editors. Perfume Engineering [Internet]. Oxford: Butterworth-Heinemann; 2013. p. 61–94. Available from: http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B9780080993997000031
  • 10. van de Pol PA. HISTORY OF ROSES IN CULTIVATION | History of the Perfume Industry. In: Roberts A V, editor. Encyclopedia of Rose Science [Internet]. Oxford: Elsevier; 2003. p. 410–4. Available from: http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B0122276205001166
  • 11. Herman S. Chapter 18 - Fragrance. In: Sakamoto K, Lochhead RY, Maibach HI, Yamashita Y, editors. Cosmetic Science and Technology [Internet]. Amsterdam: Elsevier; 2017. p. 267–83. Available from: http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B9780128020050000185
  • 12. Türkiye İlaç ve Tıbbi Cihaz Kurumu Kozmetik Ürünlerin İmalattan Sonra Kalitesinin Sürdürülmesine İlişkin Kılavuz Sürüm 1.0 [Internet]. [cited 2019 Mar 30]. Available from: https://titck.gov.tr/storage/legislation/hZyMrCu3.pdf
  • 13. Türkiye İlaç ve Tıbbi Cihaz Kurumu Kozmetik Ürünlerde Kullanılan Bitkisel Hammadde ve Bileşenler için Kalite ve Kontrol Parametreleri Kılavuzu Sürüm 1.0 [Internet]. [cited 2019 Mar 30]. Available from: https://titck.gov.tr/storage/legislation/gn0yLNaw.pdf
  • 14. Korifi R, Le Dréau Y, Antinelli JF, Valls R, Dupuy N. CIEL *a*b* color space predictive models for colorimetry devices - Analysisof perfume quality. Talanta. 2013;104:58–66.
  • 15. Gupta C. A Biotechnological Approach to Microbial Based Perfumes and Flavours. J Microbiol Exp. 2015;2(1).
  • 16. Dormehl L. Smell like Skynet: IBM creates an A.I. that will design the perfect perfume [Internet]. 2018 [cited 2019 Mar 30]. Available from: https://www.digitaltrends.com/cool-tech/ivm-machine-learning-new-perfumes/
  • 17. Dormehl L. Who needs a nose? This crazy new algorithm can predict smell just by analyzing molecular structures [Internet]. 2016 [cited 2019 Mar 31]. Available from: https://www.digitaltrends.com/cool-tech/predicting-smell-machine-learning/
  • 18. Hill S. Samsung patents perfume phone [Internet]. 2012 [cited 2019 Mar 31]. Available from: https://www.digitaltrends.com/cool-tech/samsung-patents-a-perfume-phone/
  • 19. Aron J. Glasses emit personal sound and smell [Internet]. 2011 [cited 2019 Mar 31]. Available from: https://www.newscientist.com/article/mg21228415-800-glasses-emit-personal-sound-and-smell/
  • 20. Aromatherapy [Internet]. [cited 2019 Mar 30]. Available from: https://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/ProductsIngredients/Products/ucm127054.htm
  • 21. Menné T. Allergy to cosmetics and perfumes: Will European legislation improve consumer safety? Rev Fr d’Allergologie d’Immunologie Clin. 2003;43(4):227–8.
  • 22. Kozmetik Yönetmeliğinde Değişiklik Yapılmasına Dair Yönetmelik EK I/A [Internet]. 2015. Available from: http://www.resmigazete.gov.tr/eskiler/2015/07/20150715M2-2-1.pdf
  • 23. Bagasra O, Golkar Z, Garcia M, Rice LN, Pace DG. Role of perfumes in pathogenesis of Autism. Med Hypotheses [Internet]. 2013;80(6):795–803. Available from: http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.mehy.2013.03.014
  • 24. Brabury R, Penfold J, Thomas RK, Tucker IM, Petkov JT, Jones C. Enhanced perfume surface delivery to interfaces using surfactant surface multilayer structures. J Colloid Interface Sci [Internet]. 2016;461:352–8. Available from: http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jcis.2015.09.045
  • 25. Document G, Crop ON, Trials F. Introduction. In: Mitsui T, editor. New Cosmetic Science. First. 1997. p. 1–7.
  • 26. Fragrances in Cosmetics [Internet]. Available from: https://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/ProductsIngredients/Ingredients/ucm388821.htm
  • 27. General LL. Stability of cosmetics. New Cosmet Sci. 2007;(1):191–8.
  • 28. Peña B, Panisello C, Aresté G, Garcia-Valls R, Gumí T. Preparation and characterization of polysulfone microcapsules for perfume release. Chem Eng J. 2012;179:394–403.

Perfumes: Formulations, Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow

Year 2020, Volume: 40 Issue: 1, 20 - 33, 01.01.2020

Abstract

In this study, it is aimed to examine perfumes in general. In this review, the past usage of perfumes and the developments have been made up until today has been discussed. It has been observed that the negative aspects of obtaining raw materials from natural sources are tried to be eliminated and new methods are being investigated. With the beginning of the production of synthetic substances, this search has been reduced. With the decrease of natural resources, the need for new methods has reemerged. Later, it has been observed that biotechnology is started to be used in perfume production. In perfume production, artificial intelligence has been used in order to make the process of creating different and new perfume mixtures easier. In this study, safety, stability and efficacy of perfumes were also discussed.

References

  • 1. Chisvert A, López-Nogueroles M, Salvador A. Perfumes ☆. Ref Modul Chem Mol Sci Chem Eng [Internet]. 2018;(March):4–9. Available from: https://linkinghub.elsevier.com/retrieve/pii/B9780124095472140375
  • 2. OPINION on Fragrance allergens in cosmetic products [Internet]. 2011 [cited 2019 Apr 4]. Available from: https://ec.europa.eu/health/scientific_committees/consumer_safety/docs/sccs_o_073.pdf
  • 3. Api AM, Hakkinen PJ. Fragrances and Perfumes. In: Wexler P, editor. Encyclopedia of Toxicology (Second Edition) [Internet]. Second Edi. New York: Elsevier; 2005. p. 382–4. Available from: http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B0123694000004361
  • 4. Chisvert A, Salvador A. Perfumes in Cosmetics. Regulatory Aspects and Analytical Methods for Fragrance Ingredients and other Related Chemicals in Cosmetics. In: Salvador A, Chisvert A, editors. Analysis of Cosmetic Products. Amsterdam: Elsevier; 2007. p. 243–56.
  • 5. Rodrigues SN, Martins IM, Fernandes IP, Gomes PB, Mata VG, Barreiro MF, et al. Scentfashion®: Microencapsulated perfumes for textile application. Chem Eng J. 2009;149(1–3):463–72.
  • 6. Teixeira MA, Rodríguez O, Mata VG, Rodrigues AE. The diffusion of perfume mixtures and the odor performance. Chem Eng Sci. 2009;64(11):2570–89.
  • 7. Edwards M. Fragrance families [Internet]. 2019 [cited 2019 Apr 1]. Available from: http://www1.fragrancesoftheworld.info/DashBoard#
  • 8. Cleopatra Q, Dowager C, Yang E, Islands AS. Cosmetics and fragrances. In: T. Mitsui, editor. New Cosmetic Science. First. 1997. p. 99–119.
  • 9. Teixeira MA, Rodríguez O, Gomes P, Mata V, Rodrigues AE. Performance of Perfumes. In: Teixeira MA, Rodríguez O, Gomes P, Mata V, Rodrigues AE, editors. Perfume Engineering [Internet]. Oxford: Butterworth-Heinemann; 2013. p. 61–94. Available from: http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B9780080993997000031
  • 10. van de Pol PA. HISTORY OF ROSES IN CULTIVATION | History of the Perfume Industry. In: Roberts A V, editor. Encyclopedia of Rose Science [Internet]. Oxford: Elsevier; 2003. p. 410–4. Available from: http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B0122276205001166
  • 11. Herman S. Chapter 18 - Fragrance. In: Sakamoto K, Lochhead RY, Maibach HI, Yamashita Y, editors. Cosmetic Science and Technology [Internet]. Amsterdam: Elsevier; 2017. p. 267–83. Available from: http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B9780128020050000185
  • 12. Türkiye İlaç ve Tıbbi Cihaz Kurumu Kozmetik Ürünlerin İmalattan Sonra Kalitesinin Sürdürülmesine İlişkin Kılavuz Sürüm 1.0 [Internet]. [cited 2019 Mar 30]. Available from: https://titck.gov.tr/storage/legislation/hZyMrCu3.pdf
  • 13. Türkiye İlaç ve Tıbbi Cihaz Kurumu Kozmetik Ürünlerde Kullanılan Bitkisel Hammadde ve Bileşenler için Kalite ve Kontrol Parametreleri Kılavuzu Sürüm 1.0 [Internet]. [cited 2019 Mar 30]. Available from: https://titck.gov.tr/storage/legislation/gn0yLNaw.pdf
  • 14. Korifi R, Le Dréau Y, Antinelli JF, Valls R, Dupuy N. CIEL *a*b* color space predictive models for colorimetry devices - Analysisof perfume quality. Talanta. 2013;104:58–66.
  • 15. Gupta C. A Biotechnological Approach to Microbial Based Perfumes and Flavours. J Microbiol Exp. 2015;2(1).
  • 16. Dormehl L. Smell like Skynet: IBM creates an A.I. that will design the perfect perfume [Internet]. 2018 [cited 2019 Mar 30]. Available from: https://www.digitaltrends.com/cool-tech/ivm-machine-learning-new-perfumes/
  • 17. Dormehl L. Who needs a nose? This crazy new algorithm can predict smell just by analyzing molecular structures [Internet]. 2016 [cited 2019 Mar 31]. Available from: https://www.digitaltrends.com/cool-tech/predicting-smell-machine-learning/
  • 18. Hill S. Samsung patents perfume phone [Internet]. 2012 [cited 2019 Mar 31]. Available from: https://www.digitaltrends.com/cool-tech/samsung-patents-a-perfume-phone/
  • 19. Aron J. Glasses emit personal sound and smell [Internet]. 2011 [cited 2019 Mar 31]. Available from: https://www.newscientist.com/article/mg21228415-800-glasses-emit-personal-sound-and-smell/
  • 20. Aromatherapy [Internet]. [cited 2019 Mar 30]. Available from: https://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/ProductsIngredients/Products/ucm127054.htm
  • 21. Menné T. Allergy to cosmetics and perfumes: Will European legislation improve consumer safety? Rev Fr d’Allergologie d’Immunologie Clin. 2003;43(4):227–8.
  • 22. Kozmetik Yönetmeliğinde Değişiklik Yapılmasına Dair Yönetmelik EK I/A [Internet]. 2015. Available from: http://www.resmigazete.gov.tr/eskiler/2015/07/20150715M2-2-1.pdf
  • 23. Bagasra O, Golkar Z, Garcia M, Rice LN, Pace DG. Role of perfumes in pathogenesis of Autism. Med Hypotheses [Internet]. 2013;80(6):795–803. Available from: http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.mehy.2013.03.014
  • 24. Brabury R, Penfold J, Thomas RK, Tucker IM, Petkov JT, Jones C. Enhanced perfume surface delivery to interfaces using surfactant surface multilayer structures. J Colloid Interface Sci [Internet]. 2016;461:352–8. Available from: http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jcis.2015.09.045
  • 25. Document G, Crop ON, Trials F. Introduction. In: Mitsui T, editor. New Cosmetic Science. First. 1997. p. 1–7.
  • 26. Fragrances in Cosmetics [Internet]. Available from: https://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/ProductsIngredients/Ingredients/ucm388821.htm
  • 27. General LL. Stability of cosmetics. New Cosmet Sci. 2007;(1):191–8.
  • 28. Peña B, Panisello C, Aresté G, Garcia-Valls R, Gumí T. Preparation and characterization of polysulfone microcapsules for perfume release. Chem Eng J. 2012;179:394–403.
There are 28 citations in total.

Details

Primary Language Turkish
Subjects Pharmacology and Pharmaceutical Sciences
Journal Section Review Articles
Authors

Betül Demir

Selin Seda Timur

Neslihan Gürsoy

Publication Date January 1, 2020
Acceptance Date May 26, 2020
Published in Issue Year 2020 Volume: 40 Issue: 1

Cite

Vancouver Demir B, Timur SS, Gürsoy N. Parfümler: Formülasyonları, Dünü, Bugünü ve Yarını. HUJPHARM. 2020;40(1):20-33.