Effect of Sewing Thread Properties on Seam Performance of Woven Fabrics
Year 2023,
Volume: 33 Issue: 3, 277 - 284, 30.09.2023
Esra Zeynep Yıldız
,
Oktay Pamuk
Abstract
This paper aims to investigate the influence of sewing thread properties, sewing process and repeated washing cycles on the strength reduction of sewing threads and seam strength of sewn samples. For this purpose, twenty-four commercial sewing threads with different types and linear densities were selected for the present study. The samples were sewn with specific sewing parameters. Half of the fabric samples were then subjected to 10 washing cycles. After sample preparation, the change in tensile properties after sewing and washing was calculated and the seam strength of the sewn and washed-sewn samples was measured. It was observed that the breaking strength of each parent thread was significantly higher than its corresponding sewn and washed-sewn thread strength. Considering the strength loss after sewing and after washing, it was found that, among the different types of sewing threads, the samples sewn with core-spun threads showed lower strength loss, while the samples sewn with cotton threads showed the highest loss. Moreover, the values of seam strength after washing are higher for PES-Co core-spun thread and mercerized cotton thread than before washing. However, an opposite trend was observed for the samples sewn with polyester spun and PES-PES core-spun thread. High correlations were observed between the parent thread and the strength of the sewn thread, the strength of the washed-sewn thread and the seam strength before washing.
Supporting Institution
BAP
Project Number
18-MUH-032
Thanks
This research was supported by Ege University Scientific Research Project Dept. with the project number 18-MUH-032.
References
- 1. Kechi, A. 2014. Effect of dynamic loading of sewing process and viscoelastic property of threads on seam puckering. Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management, 2014, 8(4), 1-17.
- 2. Choudhary, A.K., Goel, A. 2013. Effect of some fabric and sewing conditions on apparel seam characteristics. Journal of Textiles, 1-7.
- 3. Jonaitiene, V., Stanys, S. 2005. The analysis of the seam strength characteristics of the PES-PTFE air-jet-textured sewing threads. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 17(¾), 264-271.
- 4. Mori, M., Niwa, M. 1994. Investigation of the performance of sewing thread. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 6(2/3), 20-27.
- 5. Rengasamy, R.S., Wesley, S. 2011. Tensile behavior of sewing threads under simple-tensile, loop and knot tests. JTATM Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management, 7(2), 1-21.
- 6. Sundaresan, G., Hari, P.K., Salhotra, K.R. 1997. Strength reduction of sewing threads during high speed sewing in an industrial lockstitch machine Part I - mechanism of thread strength reduction. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 9(5), 334-345.
- 7. Ajiki, I., Postle, R. 2003. Viscoelastic properties of threads before and after sewing. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 15(1), 16-27.
- 8. Koncer, P., Gürarda, A., Kaplangiray, B., Kanık, M. 2014. The effects of sewing thread properties on the needle thread tension in an industrial sewing machine. Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, 24(1), 118-123.
- 9. Mazari, A., Akçagün, E., Büyük Mazari, F., Kejzlar, P. 2016. Effect of sewing speed on the physical properties of firefighter sewing threads. Industria Textila, 67(5), 333-337.
- 10. Wesley, D.S., Rengasamy, R.S. 2017. Changes in tensile properties of needle thread in lock stitch sewing. Fibers and Polymers, 18(2), 390-399.
- 11. Midha, V.K., Kothari, V.K., Chattopadhyay, R., Mukhopadhyay, A. 2010. Effect of workwear fabric characteristics on the changes in tensile properties of sewing threads after sewing. Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics, 5(1), 31-38.
- 12. Mukhopadhyay, A., Sikka, M., Karmakar, A.K. 2004. Impact of laundering on the seam tensile properties of suiting fabric. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 16(4), 394-403.
- 13. Viola, U.O., Ahuwan, M.F. 2015. Effects of laundering on seam efficiency of nigerian wax-print fabrics. ATBU, Journal of Science, Technology & Education, 3(4), 127-133.
- 14. Shurkian, O., Amirbayat, J., Gong, R.H.. 2002. Effects of repeated laundering and crease-resistant treatment on fabric properties. Journal of the Textile Machinery Society of Japan, 55(4), 39-42.
- 15. Gokarneshan, N, Viswanath, S.R., Nagarajan, V.B., Veeraprabhakar, J. 2015. Dimensional characteristics of cotton and viscose weft knits. International Journal of Innovative Research and Review, 3(3), 84-103.
- 16. Bharani, M., Shiyamaladevi, P.S.S., Mahendra Gowda, R.V. 2012. Characterization of seam strength and seam slippage on cotton fabric with woven structures and finish. Research Journal of Engineering Sciences, 1(2), 41-50.
- 17. Trivedi, V., Singh, G.P., Khanna, S.. 2018. Effect of sewing process on tensile properties of sewing threads in denim garment. Journal of the Textile Association, 260-265.
- 18. Khanna, S., Kaur, A., Chaterjee, K.N. 2015. Interactions of sewing variables: Effect on the tensile properties of sewing threads during sewing process. Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management, 9(3), 1-13.
- 19. Rudolf, A., Gersak, J., Ujhelyiova, A., Smole, M.S. 2007., Study of PES sewing thread properties. Fibers and Polymers, 8(2), 212-217.
- 20. Zervent Unal, B., Duru Baykal, P. 2018. Determining the effects of different sewing threads and different washing types on fabric tensile and sewing strength properties. Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, 28(1), 34-42.
- 21. Akcagun, E., Oz Ceviz, N., Yilmaz, A., Mazari, A.A. 2017. Analyzing the effects of special washing processes on characteristics of sewing threads. Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, 108(1), 1-7.
- 22. Midha, V.K., Mukhopadhyay, A., Chatopadhyay, R., Kothari, V.K. 2009. Studies on the changes in tensile properties of sewing thread at different sewing stages. Textile Research Journal, 79(13), 1155-1167.
- 23. Yıldız, E.Z., Pamuk, O. 2021, October. Effect of sewing on strength reduction of sewing threads. XVth International Izmir Textile and Apparel Symposium (415-421).
- 24. Dobilaite, V., Juciene, M. 2006. The influence of mechanical properties of sewing threads on seam pucker. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 18(5), 335-345.
- 25. Fan, J., Lau, L., Hunter, L.. 2009. Appearance issues in garment processing, 131-160, Engineering Apparel Fabrics and Garments, Fan, J. and Hunter, L. (Eds.), The Textile Institute, Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles, 392p.
- 26. Yıldız, E.Z. 2018. Modeling of seam quality by using different seam parameters (Doctoral dissertation), Ege University, Izmir, Turkey.
Year 2023,
Volume: 33 Issue: 3, 277 - 284, 30.09.2023
Esra Zeynep Yıldız
,
Oktay Pamuk
Project Number
18-MUH-032
References
- 1. Kechi, A. 2014. Effect of dynamic loading of sewing process and viscoelastic property of threads on seam puckering. Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management, 2014, 8(4), 1-17.
- 2. Choudhary, A.K., Goel, A. 2013. Effect of some fabric and sewing conditions on apparel seam characteristics. Journal of Textiles, 1-7.
- 3. Jonaitiene, V., Stanys, S. 2005. The analysis of the seam strength characteristics of the PES-PTFE air-jet-textured sewing threads. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 17(¾), 264-271.
- 4. Mori, M., Niwa, M. 1994. Investigation of the performance of sewing thread. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 6(2/3), 20-27.
- 5. Rengasamy, R.S., Wesley, S. 2011. Tensile behavior of sewing threads under simple-tensile, loop and knot tests. JTATM Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management, 7(2), 1-21.
- 6. Sundaresan, G., Hari, P.K., Salhotra, K.R. 1997. Strength reduction of sewing threads during high speed sewing in an industrial lockstitch machine Part I - mechanism of thread strength reduction. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 9(5), 334-345.
- 7. Ajiki, I., Postle, R. 2003. Viscoelastic properties of threads before and after sewing. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 15(1), 16-27.
- 8. Koncer, P., Gürarda, A., Kaplangiray, B., Kanık, M. 2014. The effects of sewing thread properties on the needle thread tension in an industrial sewing machine. Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, 24(1), 118-123.
- 9. Mazari, A., Akçagün, E., Büyük Mazari, F., Kejzlar, P. 2016. Effect of sewing speed on the physical properties of firefighter sewing threads. Industria Textila, 67(5), 333-337.
- 10. Wesley, D.S., Rengasamy, R.S. 2017. Changes in tensile properties of needle thread in lock stitch sewing. Fibers and Polymers, 18(2), 390-399.
- 11. Midha, V.K., Kothari, V.K., Chattopadhyay, R., Mukhopadhyay, A. 2010. Effect of workwear fabric characteristics on the changes in tensile properties of sewing threads after sewing. Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics, 5(1), 31-38.
- 12. Mukhopadhyay, A., Sikka, M., Karmakar, A.K. 2004. Impact of laundering on the seam tensile properties of suiting fabric. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 16(4), 394-403.
- 13. Viola, U.O., Ahuwan, M.F. 2015. Effects of laundering on seam efficiency of nigerian wax-print fabrics. ATBU, Journal of Science, Technology & Education, 3(4), 127-133.
- 14. Shurkian, O., Amirbayat, J., Gong, R.H.. 2002. Effects of repeated laundering and crease-resistant treatment on fabric properties. Journal of the Textile Machinery Society of Japan, 55(4), 39-42.
- 15. Gokarneshan, N, Viswanath, S.R., Nagarajan, V.B., Veeraprabhakar, J. 2015. Dimensional characteristics of cotton and viscose weft knits. International Journal of Innovative Research and Review, 3(3), 84-103.
- 16. Bharani, M., Shiyamaladevi, P.S.S., Mahendra Gowda, R.V. 2012. Characterization of seam strength and seam slippage on cotton fabric with woven structures and finish. Research Journal of Engineering Sciences, 1(2), 41-50.
- 17. Trivedi, V., Singh, G.P., Khanna, S.. 2018. Effect of sewing process on tensile properties of sewing threads in denim garment. Journal of the Textile Association, 260-265.
- 18. Khanna, S., Kaur, A., Chaterjee, K.N. 2015. Interactions of sewing variables: Effect on the tensile properties of sewing threads during sewing process. Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management, 9(3), 1-13.
- 19. Rudolf, A., Gersak, J., Ujhelyiova, A., Smole, M.S. 2007., Study of PES sewing thread properties. Fibers and Polymers, 8(2), 212-217.
- 20. Zervent Unal, B., Duru Baykal, P. 2018. Determining the effects of different sewing threads and different washing types on fabric tensile and sewing strength properties. Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, 28(1), 34-42.
- 21. Akcagun, E., Oz Ceviz, N., Yilmaz, A., Mazari, A.A. 2017. Analyzing the effects of special washing processes on characteristics of sewing threads. Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, 108(1), 1-7.
- 22. Midha, V.K., Mukhopadhyay, A., Chatopadhyay, R., Kothari, V.K. 2009. Studies on the changes in tensile properties of sewing thread at different sewing stages. Textile Research Journal, 79(13), 1155-1167.
- 23. Yıldız, E.Z., Pamuk, O. 2021, October. Effect of sewing on strength reduction of sewing threads. XVth International Izmir Textile and Apparel Symposium (415-421).
- 24. Dobilaite, V., Juciene, M. 2006. The influence of mechanical properties of sewing threads on seam pucker. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 18(5), 335-345.
- 25. Fan, J., Lau, L., Hunter, L.. 2009. Appearance issues in garment processing, 131-160, Engineering Apparel Fabrics and Garments, Fan, J. and Hunter, L. (Eds.), The Textile Institute, Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles, 392p.
- 26. Yıldız, E.Z. 2018. Modeling of seam quality by using different seam parameters (Doctoral dissertation), Ege University, Izmir, Turkey.